Cartridge case annealing (techniques and equipment)
In our latest video, the 6.5 Guys discuss annealing brass cartridges and provide an overview of the Bench Source annealing machine. We cover why this particular unit was purchased based on our needs versus similar products or annealing practices. We review items needed for setup and walk through fine tuning the adjustments to prepare for running a batch of cases through the annealing process.
The Art and Science of Annealing is one of the best overviews that we found on the topic and well worth your time reading. You have probably encountered all sorts of information and opinion regarding annealing, so hopefully we can save you some time and confusion by explaining what works for us and why.
In a nutshell, here is what we have learned about annealing:
- Method: Using a propane torch and something to spin the cases works just fine. We personally know some excellent shooters who use this method. However, we found it to be slow and we wanted an approach that would guarantee absolute consistency. We went with the Bench-Source machine, but there are other excellent machines on the market such as the Giraud.
- Frequency: Some shooters anneal every time while others choose a specific interval. We noticed work hardening around five firings that resulted in inconsistency in shoulder setback and neck tension, so we choose to anneal every three firings. Your mileage will vary depending on how hot your loads are and how aggressively you resize.
- Temperature: We use 750 degree Tempilaq applied inside the case neck to indicate that the proper temperature has been achieved. If you apply the Tempilaq outside the case neck you will not get a reliable indication of temperature as it will burn off instead of melting. If you turn off the lights, you will notice that the brass just barely starts to turn color when the desired temperature is reached. As you go beyond the 750 degree mark we observed that the flame will start to turn orange – you can see this with the lights on. From our research, we understand that this is the result of zinc burning off. We adjust the time on our machine between the point that the Tempilaq turns liquid and the flame starts to turn orange. In other words, if the flame is starting to turn orange reduce the time. Upon reviewing the close up shots of our video, we saw the slightest bit of orange (perhaps it was the camera being more sensitive than the human eye) so in hindsight we could have reduced the time by a quarter second or so. We let the cases air cool – we don’t quench them in water.
- Here is some additional information regarding the properties of cartridge brass. This reference shows the annealing temperature to be between 800-1400 degrees F. If that’s the case, why is 750 degree Tempilaq recommended? We spoke with one of the annealing machine manufacturers and they explained that the reaction time of a temperature measurement system will be slower than actual temperatures achieved for something as thin as a case neck. As a result, the indicated temperature will be exceeded. Higher temperatures could cause a separation of the zinc from the copper which further explains the flame turning orange when annealing time is extended past a certain point.
- Based on our research, a temperature between 750F and 800F will cause stress relief. We aim the flame at the neck/shoulder juncture. Some folks like to aim it at the neck and others the shoulder. When you see how the two flames meet and spread out vertically, it probably doesn’t make that much of a difference. Cases will turn color after annealing, but the degree of color change is not a reliable indicator. We have noticed that the appearance of cases will vary depending on brass manufacturer, brass lot, light source, and how long ago the case was annealed.
- Observations: We’ve noticed that the necks of annealed cases are never quite as soft as new cases, but they do get softer. Based on our research discussed above, this tells us that stress relief is still occuring. We could get them softer by increasing the heating time, but the flame turns orange indicating that zinc is burning off so we don’t do that. We can only surmise that brass must get heated to a higher temperature during manufacture. Heating to that extent once during manufacture probably doesn’t cause any harm, but to get that hot with each subsequent annealing will damage the brass. If any of our readers have insight as to how cases are annealed on an industrial scale please contact us. We welcome your thoughts and comments.
love the adapter you guys have to hook up the #20 pound propane tank where did you get it made to hook up to the bun o matic torch heads?
Thanks Alton Pilgrim
651 458 3635
Thanks for the positive feedback. Here’s the “T” adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-59893-Propane-Adapter-Handwheel/dp/B007HG7VWU/ref=pd_sbs_sg_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VQJ3S70378X894BE69P
We also ordered two of these hoses: http://www.amazon.com/Stansport-Propane-Appliance-Distribution-10-Feet/dp/B002R5YO7G/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1392649427&sr=1-7&keywords=propane+distribution+tree
Coleman also offers “T” adapter and hoses which you can actually find at Dicks, REI, WalMart, etc.
Thanks Steve and Ed for another great video. I have a couple of additional comments. First, remember that burning propane generates carbon monoxide — so annealing in the house in winter watching TV is probably not such a great idea. In the garage as you show is better, especially with at least a little air flow.
Next, if you set your propane tank on a scale you can tell how much propane is left so you don’t run out in the middle of an annealing run.
Tim – you make a good point. So much for setting my annealer up on my night stand.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Regards,
Ed
Thank you for all this great information about cartridge case annealing. I had no idea that you actually use propane torches and something to spin the case. I would have thought that it would require quite a bit of heavy equipment.
Thanks for the feedback. Be sure to read our latest artcle: http://www.65guys.com/weekly-gear-update-annealing-made-perfect-machine/
I believe you can achieve much higher temperatures in brass without ‘burning off zinc’ by using induction heating. Flame generally is an oxidizing reaction since O2 is the primary fuel source.
Having said that, I do my annealing by hand with one torch. Start the cool down the instant I can see any photon emission in a dim room. According to sources that should be in the correct range. According to my shooting – it’s just right.
Hi John – we’ve moved to induction annealing using the AMP machine and we love it. I’m sure you’ll agree with much of our reasoning: http://www.65guys.com/weekly-gear-update-annealing-made-perfect-machine/